BA Day 6, the journey home

Okay, slightly dramatic title since we really had more than a half day left in Buenos Aires. However, it would culminate with the start of our trip home. 

We woke up for our last morning at our 5 star location. We did still relish it slightly. Bright morning peeking through heavy shades. Large shower space with variety of wine-themed bath products. Towels bigger than you bring to the beach. 

We then subsequently, had to repack our bags. We loaded up our clothes, repacked our toiletries, and even had to prep our return to the US (by readying our carry-on bags.)

Then, it was BA go time. We wanted to make the English tour at Recoleta cemetery, so we checked out and stored our bags before hustling off again to Recoleta. 

We made the tour in time, but the free English tour took its sweet Latin American time to start. And even then, we confused the lisp in our guide for Castillean Spanish, only realizing later she was actually speaking English. 

First off, she explained a mystery to me in the cemetery: the cats. 

Everywhere else we've been, it's always about the stray dogs. Here, however, it's the cats the roam. She explained that there's a rumor that the cats help contain the spirits that like to roam at night. However, she also opined that the woman that comes to feed the animals each day may also heavily influence their presence. 

Mystery solved. She then also explained several other of the monuments and sarcophagi. Still amazing. We saw the first tomb, the wife of Gen. San Martin (the liberator and hero of Argentina). As well as some of the most elaborate. 

We a also heard a lot more about Evita. Especially, before visiting her tomb. 

In all, the tour lasted about an hour. Afterwards, we decided our skipping breakfast led to a ravenous hunger. We decided against the nearby McDonalds in favor of the far more expensive cafe next door. Tipping it's favor was the XL alfajor. 

However delicious this stop was, it did not fill us as we had hoped. After debate, we decided to make for a restaurant we knew would satisfy well, the restaurant at the Evita Museum. We made our dash. 

The menu of the day included more hake (with guarnación), a glass of Malbec and coffe or dessert. Delicious!

(Despite Meredith's face, she was happy with the dulce de leche at the bottom.)

Then we weighed our options. There was a Haulocaust museum we had wanted to see, but it's a rough way to end a trip. We also thought about more strolling through Recoleta, but it would be awhile to get there and then awhile back. The truth was we really only had an extra 20 minutes or so, before needing to be back at the hotel and departing for the (hour drive to the) airport. So we had to spend our 20 minutes wisely.

Last stop for dulce de leche and chocolate! 

From Freddo, we got back to the hotel and collected our belongings. 

Then we got in our taxi and rode the hour and paid 315 pesos. We shifted our things around to prepare for flight, checked in, went through customs and security, and then sat for our departure. 

(Mer insisted on the pose.)

Next stop, USA! 

BA Day 4

Five star wake up. 

Our new hotel is huge. Our room is such a drastic upgrade over previous rooms we've stayed in, it's almost indescribable. However, it does explain our later wake up and our tardy start. With so much room, we were almost lost!

We did, however, make it out the door. I wanted to see San Telmo, birthplace of tango and home to artisans and bohemians galore. Also, on Sunday, there's a large artisan fair. 

First, I started us down the large commercial street. There are so many money changers in the street announcing themselves, both Mer and I were tired of hearing, "cambio, cambio" shouted in the streets. If they happened to hear a word in English, immediately they start in with, "Hello. How are you? Where are you from?" Oddly specific and uncomfortably intimate, we decided street hawkers are their own breed. Is there an international school somewhere that sends these specialized workers into super urban workspaces?

Eventually, we navigated ourselves to the Plaza de Mayo (my target). What I did not know was there was the largest Cathedral in the city. Also, they had an archbishop of some renown that previously officiated there. 

Although he was promoted to a more prominent position in the Vatican (interesting note: the Spanish word for Pope and potato are the same, papa.) However, one important person remained at the Cathedral. Literally, the remains of Argentina's liberator (and Chile and Peru), José de San Martin. 

I've seen more people buried in churches than anywhere else I've seen this trip. After our visit, we made our exit. 

Then, immediately in the corner of the same plaza is the presidential residence. Like the residence in our own USA, it's named after the color. 

But, the Casa Rosada would have to wait. I wanted the fair first. And the street fair we found. 

It was such a leisurely stroll up all 11 blocks. There were crafts, art, and music. Mer bought a headband. She commented about the street being filled with Pinterest projects. I hoped to see some tango, but it was all pretty commercialized (pay to play). We even found lunch in a smallish restaurant (still charging cubiertos!) Eventually, we decided we were good and headed back to the plaza. It was time for the Casa Rosada (Pink House). 

We waited in line for entrance through the metal detector. A funny incident came when I set off the alarm and in the middle of explaining what it could have been, the guard said I looked like the great Argentine footballer, Leonel Messi. I thanked him for the compliment and I was allowed to pass. (Mer adds that this is not the first time this comment had been made. Her tico friends have commented as much.)

Again we had to wait on the inside for our tour to depart. All in Spanish, the tour was a bit rushed. There was some history and explanations, like the blue room used to greet incoming dignitaries. 

There were others too, like the press room where we watched the President (Christina) address the nation on TV our first day in BA. 

We even got to go on the balcony where Evita gave her rousing speeches to the beloved masses below. Madonna filmed a part of Evita (so I've heard) from this balcony and the Pope has been here, too. 

There was a great work outside the actual presidential workspace of the Perons themselves too.

Our tour then ended and we were led to the exit. And we headed to a cafe to sit, drink coffee, and use wi-fi. 

As evening began to descend, we walked back to our hotel along the infamous Avenida Florida again ("cambio, cambio") for a quick stopover at the hotel. It was, however, long enough to be there for 'turn down service.' Sure she opened the bed, but more importantly she left us each chocolates! 

Finally, we made our way to El Sanjuanino for dinner. It was entirely full, so we milled near the door for a moment, until a waiter signaled us down the stairs in the back. There was more seating downstairs. It was a really cute place. We figured out a good Malbec to have based on last night's advice (newer = sweeter, sweeter = happier wife). Mer had the lentil soup. 

I went for the half beef steak. 

We even had some time for some word games. 

There was even time for a little dessert, an interesting, yet delicious, chocolate mousse. 

It was a really nice dinner. We felt in our own space in the booth (which did add difficulty to grabbing our waiter's attention.) 

Truly, though, it was our walk home we'll remember most. As the chilly evening wrapped around us, we happened upon such a sight along the main road that our cores hurt from the belly laughter. A man was carrying two large garbage bags with a string tied behind him connecting up to 17 cars made from plastic bottles. We could hear the simultaneous rolling of 34 plastic wheels rolling down the streets if Buenos Aires. 

More than the sight and sound of this man and his stringed plastic cars, was the fact that his path coincided with ours for nearly 10 blocks. We got to see the faces of everyone he passed. If it wasn't a double (or triple) take, then it was a confused face of 'What the …' We then would follow just behind and share in the laughter … for all 10 blocks. Through stop lights and crosswalks, this man dragged these plastic marvels through inhabited city streets, eliciting wonder and joy as he went. 

Thank you, sir, for the wonderful, early anniversary gift. 

BA-day 5

We started the day at Gran Cafe Tortoni. Chris loves breakfast and this is a must see in BA. The cafe opened in 1858 and is a "time warp" according to Chris-but in a good way. Waiters dressed in suits with bow ties. Dark wood paneling. Cute round marble table. And chandeliers. The hot chocolate tasted like melted chocolate bars-thick and creamy. I had some traditional churros to dip in it plus ham/cheese/tomato trip decker sandwiches. Chris had cafe con leche, ham/cheese sandwiches, juice and a slice of chocolate Swiss cake. Cake for breakfast! Our waiter was pretty good with the camera. 

 

We walked up Aveneda 9 de Julio. This is a massive 24-25 lane road. Multiple light changes are needed to cross the entire road. Along the way there was a fountain replicating Iguazu falls. Since we were not able to see them this trip (I've already seen them and may have promised a trip to Niagra in exchange), I took Chris' picture. 

 We made our way to Teatro Colòn. Last time I was here the theater was under construction. I was only able to take a tour. This theater is known for its excellent acoustics. It has been said that the only downfall of the theater is that a mistake can be heard. We have tickets for tonight's opera of Tristan e Isold. I've always wanted to see an opera. Happy Anniversary to us!! Should be interesting (don't know the plot and it's in a foreign language)! 

(It's not the peace sign. It's to remember our 2nd anniversary.)

We headed back to the hotel for a clothing change and a dependable ATM. We tried to withdraw money throughout the morning, but being a Monday, every ATM had a line several people long. We were still full from breakfast and headed to another part of town to the Recoleta Cemetary (my favorite site in BA). Yes, we visited a Cemetary on our anniversary. 

The Recoleta Cemetary is the most expensive real estate in the city. And for the second time I long for photography skills. 

We peaked inside of some tombs. Most tombs have space for 2-4 caskets above and ground and a bronze gate below where older caskets can be put. The larger ones had stairs to access down below. 

The old belief emphasized the importance of where the body rested. Many had stain glassed windows and shelves for flowers. The average tomb can hold 25 caskets. And some were very well kept. 

We passed many familiar names-familiar because of the names we saw on street signs. In the historical section, the tombs resembled monuments. 

We also found Evita's grave. Her body was stolen after the military coup and hid in Milan for 19 or so years. 1971 she was returned after a terrorist group stole the body of another president. Who knew a dead body could be used as randsom. 

I could have stayed in the Cemetary all afternoon. Just wandering up and down the rows, peaking into the mausoleums, admiring the statues. But we needed to get some lunch and it was 4pm. 

We needed something we could count on-back to Cumana for a dependable meal. I had the same pumpkin & meat cazuela. Chris had the potato & meat. And we had a penguino (penguin) of wine. This is about 1/2 bottle of wine. And we remembered to get a photo of the ambiance. 

We had 2 hours before we needed to leave for the theater. Chris decided we could make it across town to the water-Puerto Madero. So we hoofed it across town. 23 blocks in 40 minutes during rush hour. BA had a working port for less than 20 years. BA is known as a city with it's back turned to the water. The development on the water is new (expensive). This is the puente de la mujer (bridge of the woman). 

Oh my gosh our legs hurt. My feet ached. But we needed to get back to the hotel to get ready for the theater. This was a much shorter 12 block walk. At the hotel Chris had a catastrophe with the iron and his khaki pants. We both packed items just for the theater. I hauled my Sanita shoes (which are heavy) across half the continent. (They are my packing regret.) But they felt so good when I put them on. Off to the theater. We climbed up to the 6th floor. The theater truly is beautiful. 

When we bought the tickets online, there was a warning about "these streets have an obstructed view." But the price was right. And we figured we were right below standing room-we'd be fine. The warning was correct. This was how I had to sit to see the stage. 

We looked to the stage and realized this was going to be an opera different than we'd anticipated. There were chairs for an orchestra. No set. The opera was sang, without props, costumes, or a set. The singers stood there and sang. The context clues we'd hoped for did not exist. Trouble. 

As the conductor began, he stopped 2-3 times and turned around to the audience in obvious disgust. The acoustics were so good that any rustling around in the audience could be heard by the conductor and he wanted it stopped. I've never been to a concert where there are audible "shh" from one area of the theater. (No whispering sweet nothings for Chris and me.)

There was an electronic screen that translated the lyrics-into Spanish.  (Meaning we both were lost. Me, because I couldn't read fast enough and the language was languid. Chris, because he took a quick nap.) The man next to me had his head on the railing. The one next to Chris was sleeping. Guess we wern't the only ones who found this evening difficult. 

After 90 minutes there was a standing ovation. We took advantage of the opportunity and left. We grabbed McDonalds on the way back to the hotel (oddly enough, we couldn't find empanadas). Classy, I know. Anniversary dinner as take out from McDonalds, but we had a bottle of Malbec waiting for us back at the hotel. 

Chris had a surprise waiting for us in the hotel room. 

He'd had champaign and chocolates delivered to our room along with a second anniversary note from the Butler. He is so sneaky! I don't know when/how he managed the champaign. And he won't reveal his sources. Completely unexpected especially since he'd been so intent on getting wine for after the theater. 

We finished off the night with Champaign and a couple of games of Cribbage. It was a memorable and wonderful anniversary in BA.