BA Day 4

Five star wake up. 

Our new hotel is huge. Our room is such a drastic upgrade over previous rooms we've stayed in, it's almost indescribable. However, it does explain our later wake up and our tardy start. With so much room, we were almost lost!

We did, however, make it out the door. I wanted to see San Telmo, birthplace of tango and home to artisans and bohemians galore. Also, on Sunday, there's a large artisan fair. 

First, I started us down the large commercial street. There are so many money changers in the street announcing themselves, both Mer and I were tired of hearing, "cambio, cambio" shouted in the streets. If they happened to hear a word in English, immediately they start in with, "Hello. How are you? Where are you from?" Oddly specific and uncomfortably intimate, we decided street hawkers are their own breed. Is there an international school somewhere that sends these specialized workers into super urban workspaces?

Eventually, we navigated ourselves to the Plaza de Mayo (my target). What I did not know was there was the largest Cathedral in the city. Also, they had an archbishop of some renown that previously officiated there. 

Although he was promoted to a more prominent position in the Vatican (interesting note: the Spanish word for Pope and potato are the same, papa.) However, one important person remained at the Cathedral. Literally, the remains of Argentina's liberator (and Chile and Peru), José de San Martin. 

I've seen more people buried in churches than anywhere else I've seen this trip. After our visit, we made our exit. 

Then, immediately in the corner of the same plaza is the presidential residence. Like the residence in our own USA, it's named after the color. 

But, the Casa Rosada would have to wait. I wanted the fair first. And the street fair we found. 

It was such a leisurely stroll up all 11 blocks. There were crafts, art, and music. Mer bought a headband. She commented about the street being filled with Pinterest projects. I hoped to see some tango, but it was all pretty commercialized (pay to play). We even found lunch in a smallish restaurant (still charging cubiertos!) Eventually, we decided we were good and headed back to the plaza. It was time for the Casa Rosada (Pink House). 

We waited in line for entrance through the metal detector. A funny incident came when I set off the alarm and in the middle of explaining what it could have been, the guard said I looked like the great Argentine footballer, Leonel Messi. I thanked him for the compliment and I was allowed to pass. (Mer adds that this is not the first time this comment had been made. Her tico friends have commented as much.)

Again we had to wait on the inside for our tour to depart. All in Spanish, the tour was a bit rushed. There was some history and explanations, like the blue room used to greet incoming dignitaries. 

There were others too, like the press room where we watched the President (Christina) address the nation on TV our first day in BA. 

We even got to go on the balcony where Evita gave her rousing speeches to the beloved masses below. Madonna filmed a part of Evita (so I've heard) from this balcony and the Pope has been here, too. 

There was a great work outside the actual presidential workspace of the Perons themselves too.

Our tour then ended and we were led to the exit. And we headed to a cafe to sit, drink coffee, and use wi-fi. 

As evening began to descend, we walked back to our hotel along the infamous Avenida Florida again ("cambio, cambio") for a quick stopover at the hotel. It was, however, long enough to be there for 'turn down service.' Sure she opened the bed, but more importantly she left us each chocolates! 

Finally, we made our way to El Sanjuanino for dinner. It was entirely full, so we milled near the door for a moment, until a waiter signaled us down the stairs in the back. There was more seating downstairs. It was a really cute place. We figured out a good Malbec to have based on last night's advice (newer = sweeter, sweeter = happier wife). Mer had the lentil soup. 

I went for the half beef steak. 

We even had some time for some word games. 

There was even time for a little dessert, an interesting, yet delicious, chocolate mousse. 

It was a really nice dinner. We felt in our own space in the booth (which did add difficulty to grabbing our waiter's attention.) 

Truly, though, it was our walk home we'll remember most. As the chilly evening wrapped around us, we happened upon such a sight along the main road that our cores hurt from the belly laughter. A man was carrying two large garbage bags with a string tied behind him connecting up to 17 cars made from plastic bottles. We could hear the simultaneous rolling of 34 plastic wheels rolling down the streets if Buenos Aires. 

More than the sight and sound of this man and his stringed plastic cars, was the fact that his path coincided with ours for nearly 10 blocks. We got to see the faces of everyone he passed. If it wasn't a double (or triple) take, then it was a confused face of 'What the …' We then would follow just behind and share in the laughter … for all 10 blocks. Through stop lights and crosswalks, this man dragged these plastic marvels through inhabited city streets, eliciting wonder and joy as he went. 

Thank you, sir, for the wonderful, early anniversary gift.