We walked up Aveneda 9 de Julio. This is a massive 24-25 lane road. Multiple light changes are needed to cross the entire road. Along the way there was a fountain replicating Iguazu falls. Since we were not able to see them this trip (I've already seen them and may have promised a trip to Niagra in exchange), I took Chris' picture.
We made our way to Teatro Colòn. Last time I was here the theater was under construction. I was only able to take a tour. This theater is known for its excellent acoustics. It has been said that the only downfall of the theater is that a mistake can be heard. We have tickets for tonight's opera of Tristan e Isold. I've always wanted to see an opera. Happy Anniversary to us!! Should be interesting (don't know the plot and it's in a foreign language)!
We headed back to the hotel for a clothing change and a dependable ATM. We tried to withdraw money throughout the morning, but being a Monday, every ATM had a line several people long. We were still full from breakfast and headed to another part of town to the Recoleta Cemetary (my favorite site in BA). Yes, we visited a Cemetary on our anniversary.
The Recoleta Cemetary is the most expensive real estate in the city. And for the second time I long for photography skills.
We peaked inside of some tombs. Most tombs have space for 2-4 caskets above and ground and a bronze gate below where older caskets can be put. The larger ones had stairs to access down below.
The old belief emphasized the importance of where the body rested. Many had stain glassed windows and shelves for flowers. The average tomb can hold 25 caskets. And some were very well kept.
We passed many familiar names-familiar because of the names we saw on street signs. In the historical section, the tombs resembled monuments.
We also found Evita's grave. Her body was stolen after the military coup and hid in Milan for 19 or so years. 1971 she was returned after a terrorist group stole the body of another president. Who knew a dead body could be used as randsom.
I could have stayed in the Cemetary all afternoon. Just wandering up and down the rows, peaking into the mausoleums, admiring the statues. But we needed to get some lunch and it was 4pm.
We needed something we could count on-back to Cumana for a dependable meal. I had the same pumpkin & meat cazuela. Chris had the potato & meat. And we had a penguino (penguin) of wine. This is about 1/2 bottle of wine. And we remembered to get a photo of the ambiance.
We had 2 hours before we needed to leave for the theater. Chris decided we could make it across town to the water-Puerto Madero. So we hoofed it across town. 23 blocks in 40 minutes during rush hour. BA had a working port for less than 20 years. BA is known as a city with it's back turned to the water. The development on the water is new (expensive). This is the puente de la mujer (bridge of the woman).
Oh my gosh our legs hurt. My feet ached. But we needed to get back to the hotel to get ready for the theater. This was a much shorter 12 block walk. At the hotel Chris had a catastrophe with the iron and his khaki pants. We both packed items just for the theater. I hauled my Sanita shoes (which are heavy) across half the continent. (They are my packing regret.) But they felt so good when I put them on. Off to the theater. We climbed up to the 6th floor. The theater truly is beautiful.
When we bought the tickets online, there was a warning about "these streets have an obstructed view." But the price was right. And we figured we were right below standing room-we'd be fine. The warning was correct. This was how I had to sit to see the stage.
We looked to the stage and realized this was going to be an opera different than we'd anticipated. There were chairs for an orchestra. No set. The opera was sang, without props, costumes, or a set. The singers stood there and sang. The context clues we'd hoped for did not exist. Trouble.
As the conductor began, he stopped 2-3 times and turned around to the audience in obvious disgust. The acoustics were so good that any rustling around in the audience could be heard by the conductor and he wanted it stopped. I've never been to a concert where there are audible "shh" from one area of the theater. (No whispering sweet nothings for Chris and me.)
There was an electronic screen that translated the lyrics-into Spanish. (Meaning we both were lost. Me, because I couldn't read fast enough and the language was languid. Chris, because he took a quick nap.) The man next to me had his head on the railing. The one next to Chris was sleeping. Guess we wern't the only ones who found this evening difficult.
After 90 minutes there was a standing ovation. We took advantage of the opportunity and left. We grabbed McDonalds on the way back to the hotel (oddly enough, we couldn't find empanadas). Classy, I know. Anniversary dinner as take out from McDonalds, but we had a bottle of Malbec waiting for us back at the hotel.
Chris had a surprise waiting for us in the hotel room.
He'd had champaign and chocolates delivered to our room along with a second anniversary note from the Butler. He is so sneaky! I don't know when/how he managed the champaign. And he won't reveal his sources. Completely unexpected especially since he'd been so intent on getting wine for after the theater.
We finished off the night with Champaign and a couple of games of Cribbage. It was a memorable and wonderful anniversary in BA.
No comments:
Post a Comment