Luang Prabang is the cultural heart of Laos, as well as the ancient capital of the Lane Xieng empire, or the romantically titled 'Land of a Million Elephants.' Besides being a royal city, it is also a holy one. As such, there is a high concentration of monks here for training and maintaining the many wats, temples, and stupas. Those monks rely on the material support of the populace. One such example is the "giving of alms" at sunrise. Our hostel host told us they typically pass from 5:30-6. So I set my alarm and got up early.
When I first got up, no one else was awake (even Mer didn't want to join me). Included on the not awake list was our host who had moved her bed to the reception area under a mosquito net. The heavy, wooden accordion doors were shut and locked. By the light of my cellphone, I unlocked slide locks quietly and managed to sneak out without waking her up. The monks were already en route.
It was raining slightly, so they were equipped with umbrellas while remaining barefoot. They carried their pots in front while the faithful awaited down the street to hand out the 'alms' of sticky rice.
This was all done silently. The only noise were the birds chirping and tourists clomping around to take pictures (I, too, was barefoot, but not out of reverence, but because I forgot my sandals at that early hour.) By 6 am, it was all done and everyone returned home.
We decided to start our day at the royal of holies (or holy of royals?) The Royal Palace Museum used to be the home of the King, the Patriarch of Lao Buddhism, and adjacent to it in the same complex was Wat Pha Bang, home to the Pha Bang Buddha that legitimized the Lao King and is the namesake of the city (Prabang). First, we had to pay, remove our shoes, and stash our things. (Sorry, no photos) There were many Buddha statues from former surrounding wats. There was also a bit of history of the Lao royal lineage leading up to the last King Sisavangvatthana who abdicated in 1975 to the Comminist Pathet Lao upon their takeover. The house was presented primarily as the last king left it. Bedrooms, dining room, and royal reception halls all had tools, crowns, clothing, and furniture from the Lao royal dynasty. There was a lot of gold: helmets, scabbards, candle holders, shoes, crowns, and, of course, Buddhas. Included were gifts from various nations, including President Nixon.
We wound our way slowly. There was even a Lao Buddhist story in told several paintings with descriptions that we read as we went. There were a collection of cars that the kings used that were gifts from the USA.
Finally, we went to the Wat Pha Bang. It was beautiful. 
We had to take off our shoes to get into the front area, but we couldn't go in nor take pictures of the Buddha itself. So Mer took her feelings out on the Naga on the staircase.
It was still raining as we made our way to our next Wat Xieng Thong. I wanted to see it for its three-tiered sweeping low roof.
Mer happened to catch me out the window. 
There was another exterior wall featuring the Buddist 'Tree of Life' that we saw featured all around Luang Prabang memorabilia sold in tourist markets. 
After lunch, we headed back to our hostel and changed into our swimming suits to get ready for the trip to the Kuang Si Waterfalls we had previously booked through our hostel. The minivan parked outside on time and we crawled in the last available back seats. It was a bad move. The exhaust came in our back windows, and the winding switchbacks and erratic maneuvering of the driver in a van that, felt like, held only a 100cc engine. I was fine, but I knew Mer was going to be infinitely car sick. Sure enough, as she held her face, she only asked, "How much longer?" Upon arriving, she stormed through everyone to exit the van first for fresh air and solid ground and stave off nausea.
Mer even found her newly favorite elephant. Only this one was sparkly.
We then stopped at a nearby soup stall for lunch. I found out it was a pork soup (both pork meat and pork rinds).
She gathered herself like a champ and then smiled in photos of the picturesque waterfalls.
We then hiked around a bit only to realize our Chaco sandals wouldn't hold up well on the mud-covered, slippery rocks. I urged us toward a spot in the water. It was cold!
And then I wanted to play in the falls.
I think It was enough to finally get Mer to want to get her toes wet too. 
And, after a bit of bravery, (and an unfortunate slip) she got in a bit deeper too. 
The Kuang Si waterfalls were just wholly enjoyable. 
We then returned to our van, this time getting seats in the very front. The ride back was much easier. It dropped us off in the market. We perused the items, but went back to shower (and cement a place for our next stop) before heading out for dinner.
Once again, we aimed for a place in the guidebook, only to find another restaurant in Laos without clientele or anyone really working there. 
So, we continued on and found a Lao barbecue. They removed a circle from the middle of the table and replaced it with a bowl of flaming coals. 
Then came the inverted metal strainer. Our beef and chicken went on top for grilling. Then water and vegetables went around the moat for boiling. 
It was a bit of work, but delicious work. 
The Coke and Beer Lao helped too. 
After dinner we made our way back around the peninsula and through the night market. It was shutting down for the night, but Mer had been scouting some tops. She found her seller and tried on some tops. One had great color and design while another fit well and would go with many other bottoms. We negotiated a deal for both.
We navigated back to our place and then settled in for the night. Tomorrow Mer wants to see the monks in their processional and our intended activities depend on the rain. It's our last half-day in Laos and Luang Prabang.
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