First off started with our night at Nam Phuong hotel. I know Mer last explained the great view. It was spectacular, especially in the quieter, first light of morning. The bed, however, was much worse than previously reported. I had to check to see if we actually had a mattress because it was that hard. It felt more like stacked cardboard. The pillows were both minuscule and flat. Think the length and width of 2 dish cloths stuffed with a Kleenex. Both of us tossed and turned to horrible sleep. At first, we thought the AC wasn't working and were roasting. As the night wore on, it got progressively colder to the point of freezing. To top off the long night, the sun rose through our eastern facing windows at 5:10. We were awake long before our 6:30 alarm.
Travis pointed us to the right one and we all boarded. There were 6 tables with 12 bench seats on the first deck with a flat upper deck with cushions and a sun awning. We then motored out into Lan Ha bay. We passed entire floating communities en route to a floating restaurant. 
After a good four hours of climbing, we collected our things and headed back to the smaller boat that had returned. 
So we got up and stretched our sore backs and relished our now freezing room. We debated whether our breakfast was included and headed down our 5 flights of stairs to inquire (it was not), but we ate anyway. I opted for the omelette with bread and a black coffee. Mer got the spring rolls and the sauce was amazing. We also got and first banana pancake!
We then walked the short few blocks to Asia Outdoors to check in. Travis was leading the charges of 20 or so of the group. We piled into 2 vans (with bags of equipment) and headed for the other side of town to the Ben Beo harbor on the east side of the island. There were a bunch of local tourists pushing through the gate as Travis handed us out tickets ("let's wait for this bottleneck to clear.") When the coast was clearer, we went through and saw 4 junk boats docked.
Our kayaks were moored at this restaurant. Thankfully, we were given a wet bag. And they were 2-person kayaks! Mer and I have a belief that as a part of pre-marriage counseling, a couple should be made to row a boat together. So many lessons of working together, division of labor, communication, love & respect, and yolking together. We got in last, got some instruction, and set off. The beauty was imminently present.
For our Austin readers, these kayaks were much better than our Lady Bird Lake variety. They were enclosed (which protects legs from the sun), and the paddles were both curved and shaped. It helped us glide much easier with less effort. Knowing I was going climbing later, I didn't want to expend all my arm strength rowing.
After an hour or so off rowing past beautiful karst cliffs covered in foliage and past entire floating fishing communities ("Stay a dog's leap away from homes for their privacy and your safety," Travis warned us.) We eventually made our way under a stone arch and into a secluded bay. "This is where," Travis began, "if you haven't hydrated, do so now. Also, you should get out and swim. I'll now demonstrate how to get out of your kayak without tipping and sinking it "
The water felt amazing. Mer got out first.
I then followed.
After sweltering days in Hanoi and the hot bus-bus-boat-bus to Cat Ba, this glorious sun in the gentle waters of this quiet bay felt beyond wonderful. We both could have stayed all day.
Eventually, however, we loaded back into the kayaks and continued on. We meandered through more cliffs and floating homes. We eventually did hear Travis' retelling of how the cliffs were formed. One tale goes that thousands of years ago, Vietnamese villagers were being constantly looted by Chinese pirates. So they prayed the gods would protect them and, in response, the gods sent fire from the sky to burn up these Chinese mauraders. The cliffs are now the ashen remains of those ancient foes and a reminder to any that may follow their steps. The other telling, far more geological, tells of years of underwater sediments compacting into limestone. Then a ripple effect of a far away fault line pushed these cliffs out of the water as necessary. Thus, the layers of limestone cut at different angles, either parallel to the water, diagonal, or nearly perpendicular. Then the mollusks and crabs cling to the bottoms of the cliffs and their acidic deaths eat away at the bottoms.
Later, we rowed on to meet back up with the junk boat. We dried off/jumped from the top deck to await lunch. I, for one, loved the variety of fish, spring rolls, potato, and even tofu.
After lunch, we changed to dry (non-salt water) clothes and jumped into a smaller attached boat to our climbing location. This time we were led by Jake, Nate, and Leah. They set up the first ropes of the first few climbs and then belayed for all volunteers. There were 9 climbers in total and we all took turns. There were two 'easy' ones.
The second had less visible hand and foot holds.
Then there was an intermediate climb that Mer actually began with, but I did last.
I knew when I did indoor courses, I had a tendency to overuse my arms for pulling, when I should be using my feet for pushing. I was thankful for the helmet for the number of times I hit my head because I was looking down for steps instead of looking up for hand pulls.
There were two more harder climbs that they set up, but few of us had strength or energy left to do them (including Mer and I). In the end, my shirt was soaked through as if I had been swimming, but it was all exertion sweat.
By this time, sundown was approaching shortly as we met back up with the junk boat. It was a beautiful ride back after a full day of exertion for all.
We got back to Ben Beo harbor. Unloaded the junk boat into the 2 vans. Some people had opted to overnight on the boat. We, however, knew we needed a shower and AC (or air con, as we'd now heard said in a British accent repeatedly.) We rode the short van trip back into Cat Ba town, collected our small bag, and then shuffled back to Nam Phuong hotel. While the stair climb up 5 flights was painful, our open room shower was amazing for both the cool water and the space to hand wash our 2 sets of clothes we tore through today.
After resting and rehydrating in the refreshing AC, we finally set out after dark (7 o'clock) for dinner. While we both could have collapsed for the night, we knew eating would be a good idea for our future. We settled on the Green Bamboo where we started with complimentary watermelon juice with honeydew chunks in it. Mer got our first bowl of pho. While I got fried rice with chicken. And my first delicious glass of iced coffee.
As we walked back from dinner, the main center square of town was set up with tables and chairs and a HUGE tv monitor where a great many people were watching the Eurocup game between Spain and Czech Republic. It was cool to see, but we were exhausted.
We got back to our hotel, cranked the AC and collapsed. Although the bed was stiff as a board, we knew we'd fall asleep instantly.
And sure enough we did. Our epic adventure day was successfully done. Our bones and sore muscles were the proof.
No comments:
Post a Comment