Huế - Vietnam's Imperial City

After our over-the-top bus ride (over-the-bunk?) to Hue, we were at least well poised to get going on the day after our 7 am arrival. I had previously marked our Sinh Tourist office as well as our guesthouse. We were bombarded by taxi and cyclo offers that it was a bit much for the morning. To one guy who boarded the bus and asked where I was staying I honestly answered with an, "I don't know. I just woke up!" 

He left us alone after that. 

We collected our bags, checked our Google maps, and then off to Phong Lan Guest House (Now, I could tell the guy!) It was tucked down a cute little alley and I had some trouble locating, but Mer got it.

Now we had debated the night before about paying $4 for an early check-in and decided against it. Now, in the morning, wearing our same clothes we saw Ho Chi Minh in 24 hours earlier, we wanted a clean start. There was a bit of confusion if our room was ready, so we got breakfast in the interim.

These jams were part of it and delicious! They had exotic flavored such as pineapple & fig and more classics like blackberry & apple.

Eventually, we got the room sorted out. It's small, but has a nice balcony, and the AC works. 

We then cleaned up and changed clothes. We also collected our laundry to do for the first time (this hostel has that service for $1.34/kg). Then we headed out for the famed Citadel of Hue. 

Short history lesson here: The nation of Vietnam came together under the Nguyen dynasty who set the center of their empire in Hue. The double-moated royal Citadel was built between 1804-1833 where the emperor oversaw the happenings throughout the country. Eventually, French colonialism weakened the emperor's power. By the rise of communism, the emperor's powers had been so weakened, the 13th emperor abdicated to Ho Chi Minh. Then, during the American war, the North conquered Hue during the Tet Offensive and took up defenses inside the Imperial Enclosure. The Americans subsequently bombed most of the Citadel's structures to rubble in retaking the city. Some edifices remain while others have been meticulously rebuilt. Many, however still remain empty plots where royal buildings once stood. 

One more thing about Hue: It's hot! By 10 am when we started out trek across the Perfume River to the Citadel, it was already roasting under a clear sky. We were both wet upon arrival at the Flag Tower. 

We crossed the first moat, paid the entry fee, then made it across the second moat to enter at the Ngo Mon Gate. 

Immediately inside was the Thai Hoa Palace where the Emperor would receive all visitors. 

Here, his throne was located. 

This room was was very ornately decorated with poetry written in Chinese throughout. 

The roofing too followed the same tradition. 

We then passed to the Hall of the Mandarins. These were the advisors to the Emperor who rose the ranks and was surprisingly based on merit. Villagers could take examinations in their village. If they passed, the next test was in the provincial capital. Passing that meant another test in Hue. Then you started at the lowest rank of Mandarin, and could then work your way up the hierarchy of Mandarins, potentially sent back to the provinces to administer the Emperor's decrees there. The Halls had been rebuilt too. 

It was at this point that we recognized our severe temperatures. There was a marked difference between sun and shade. This Hall of the Mandarins, while open, had a roof and intermittent doors that made for a delightful cross-breeze. 

After many cooling-off stops, we made it to the Emperor's Reading Room. This was another lovely (shaded) area where the Emperor's library was housed. 

Mer especially wanted to be featured reading here ("I just love the library, okay?")

There was also a nice pond to its side where we again rested in the shade. 

Across from here was a sun splashed, golden dragon. I have to admit, it was so bright we couldn't see the pictures as we took them. 

We then retreated to the shady, nearby administrative building constructed under the last emperor, Bao Dai. There was a nice pond there where Mer could feed the goldfish. 

It was around this time I noticed something new on my iPhone camera. There was a yellow triangle with an exclamation point inside on the upper left. When I tapped it, I got a unique message. 

It was hot for us. It was hot for the camera's flash. I looked for iCoke, but all I found were 2.5x the price water for us. 

We actually found this water in the Dien Tho Residence, or womens' quarters. It's where the Queen Mother (emperor's mama) oversaw the lives of all the women within the Imperial Enclosure, including the wives and concubines. The Queen Mother had a lot of power and influence from her, rather large, area within the Enclosure. 

Last within the Royal portion of the Citadel were the To Mieu temples. Only 5 of the 9 remain, but it was the first place we had to take off shoes and hats. 

At this point, we had spent 5 hours, intermittently in the blazing sun. We noticed it seemed almost 15 degrees cooler in the shade and there were points that we'd hit a sunny patch after following along a shady route and the instant heat blast would almost knock us down. We could have toured all of the above in half the time if it hadn't been for regular cooling off and rehydrating stops. We were thankful for the long, shady exit out. 

We eventually decided to make our way to the Mandarin cafe, through which we wanted to book a tour to the DMZ the next day. It was a long walk out of the Citadel and back across the river. Confirming was simple and we decided to stay for a quick meal. Using their wifi, I was finally able to check out temps.

100 degrees with a 127 degree wind chill! No wonder we nearly evaporated. Then our food came. Mer got banh hoai & the waitress can over to show her how to assemble it like a local (think Vietnamese taco.) I wanted the protein in an omelette sandwich with another iced coffee (it's becoming my favorite in this heat!)

After refreshments, we decided it was time for refreshening ourselves. We went back to our place for shower #2 of the day. We cooled off in the AC and relaxed until sunset. 

Once a cooler darkness set in, we set out to the streets again. First, to Sinh Tourist to buy a ticket to Hoi An (easiest, cheapest, closest) for the day after next. Then to a cute French Bakery, ideally to pick up breakfast for the morning. They didn't have much left, but they did have chocolate cake. 

We stuck around for pizza too (and more iced coffee!)

(Don't think the irony was lost on me that we were eating Italian pizza in a French bakery in Vietnam)

Feeling quite content, we walked home with a mission to find water and found our best value yet! (1.5L of Aphana for 7,000 dong or 31¢) The streets were alive walking home with Euro Cup on. Every TV was glued to England vs Wales. So we got back to our place for shower #3 while we turned on the game ourselves. 

It was a Hue of a hot day, but very enjoyable. Tomorrow we will tackle the not-so-distant history of the DMZ.