Cat Ba departure - Back in Hanoi

The 5:10 sunrise had nothing on our sore bodies. For the first time, we both slept until the alarm in Vietnam. Our lackluster bed could hardly deter our tired bodies. Although, once we rose, we stretched our stiff backs and there was no going back down or risk never getting up again. 

The dilemma for us was trying to taxi out to the "Hospital Cave" or not. There was a hidden and secluded cave used by the Viet Cong as a hospital during the America War that could neither be bombed nor easily found. It was a short ride out of Cat Ba town. The only problem was we were both too sore to go out. As the morning wore on and we were comfortably frozen on our bed overlooking the beautiful bay, we knew the hospital cave wasn't going to happen. 

Instead, we set out to buy our ticket back to Hanoi and then to breakfast. We returned to eat at the Oasis Bar. We both got the eggs with sausage. I thought I ordered the hot, black coffee, but it came iced. I wasn't sad. 

Then we raced back to the hotel and paid the 720,000 đong price ($32) and packed up our things to head out for our 9:15 departure. Our return was much faster this time around. The bus from Cat Ba town brought us right to the Cai Vieng harbor where the boat was waiting. There we returned across the bay to Hai Phong where the next bus was just unloading in time for us to board and take us into town. Once in town, we unloaded directly into the next bus to go to Hanoi. This next bus appeared to be high class as the white-gloved Hoang Long bus employee introduced himself and trip details before turning on a DVD of the Vietnamese Grammys. Later, he even passed out a wet wipe and bottle of water. Top notch!

When we finally pulled into the Luong Yen bus station we knew we had work in front of us. We've read and heard the taxis at the station are notorious for price gouging, especially tourists. We were supposed to cross the street and then hail one from an approved list provided by Hotel Ciao. It was hard to read the names as they motored past (Was that Nguyen Thanh or Thanh Ngoc?)

Finally we got one, but language proved difficult to explain where we wanted to go. Finally I got "Hoan Kiem" Lake across, but "St. Joseph's Cathedral" wasn't working. Finally Mer made the prayer motion and that worked! I made sure to cement our previous 32,000 dong price ($1.43) and then we were off. I then checked his progress on my google maps to make sure we communicated correctly ( <-post coming on this technological amazingness we discovered on this trip!)

Indeed, he got us to the right spot. We then meandered in the alleyway to return to Hotel Ciao Hanoi. We were happy to be back even though there were a few hiccups upon our return. Our first room, though touted as a "better room," reeked of cigarette smoke. So we immediately switched to a different one where it took over an hour (and 4 front desk visits) to determine the AC wasn't working correctly. Then, they offered a 3rd room, but it was 2 twin beds instead. 

The picture is proof of where our values lie (AC all the way!)

Since it was now 4 o'clock, we then set out to eat for the first time since breakfast. We aimed for the well recommended, and aptly named Dac Kim Bun Cha Nem Cua Be. 

Thankfully, the menu was in English, and the spread was still grand. Also we weren't eating it correctly, so the restaunteur, in flustered sadness, explained to us (In English) the proper way to eat. 

(FYI, noodles, greens, and rolls all go in the soup)

It was delicious, even as Korean tourists sat next to us bemoaning the Hanoi heat. Mer even got her favorite drink. 

It was the voice of Alicia at CHIC last summer that she heard, "Have a Coke and buck up for the rest of the day!"

We then wandered off to find the Sinh Tourist office (of which there are many imposters around town) which we located online to confirm our bus seats to Hué tomorrow. We wanted upstairs and in front. 

After this, we wandered south toward Hoan Kiem Lake. Along the way there were numerous sights we saw. The traffic along the streets never ceases to amaze.

And there were great specialty stores including an entire alley of women's intimate wear and a whole store dedicated to buttons!

Mer had been decrying her surprising under packing, so when we passed a store selling billowing elephant pants, we checked them out. And, for $3.58, she bought some. 

We then lingered by the lake where a beautiful sun was setting. We found a bench in the shade and just enjoyed the gentle breezes. 

We potentially avoided a scam we'd heard about when a young man came up to us and asked, "Hello! May I talk to you?" We heard stories where kind strangers come up and ask to practice English while starting a night out of dinner and drinks before they disappear and you're left with a million dong check to pay. We just politely declined and he moved along. 

And on that note, Mer commented and I agreed, that for all the warnings of scams and hawking, so far all the offers we've had have been very polite and a simple, "No," moves both parties along easily. In Argentina, and especially Bolivia, the hawkers were much more aggressive. The heat has been a larger annoyance here. 

As we left the lake, we saw a few groups of people playing hackisack with a badminton shuttlecock. Impressive!

There was then another lake in the French Quarter that I thought would be a good target to head to. It ended up being not that spectacular.  

By this time, we were pretty tired and sweaty (as attested by my picture just a few moments before)

We returned back to our hotel where we knew the AC would cool us well. 

Tomorrow would be a big day to see Ho Chi Minh. It was the major reason for returning to Hanoi for another night. It opens at 7:30 and we wanted to get there early to avoid the several block long winding line in stifling heat. Off to our night of a twin bed, AC wonderland.