Valparaiso

(Chris, back from the stomach bug)

Our wake up in Vaparaiso was quite interesting. We heard the rustling of tables and chairs above us as we went to bed the night before. We awoke to the loud chorus of chants from the square below us starting around 5:30 and continuing through our 8 am wake up. Determined singers, if nothing else. We actually slept really well despite the odd sounds. The seven layers of blankets helped. 

We then went up to the restaurant for breakfast where we were the only ones eating. It was the most delicious breakfast we've had our whole trip. Sliced fruit, yogurt, cereal, cheese, pineapple juice, bread, coffee, and tea. 

We had previously reserved our spot with a walking tour company, but we needed a bit more cash for our stay in Chile. So we tracked down an ATM and then headed down to a nearby plaza to meet our tour. 

We were one of the first ones, so we hung out for awhile. Eventually, around 25 people gathered and we set off with Ignacio for our tour. Also, on our tour was a pack of four dogs. The strangest street dogs I've ever seen, they were thick and suddenly LOYAL to our group. They followed us everywhere and even attacked a passing motorcyclist in a territorial claim. 

First, we visited the port and learned of Valparaiso's early shipping importance, as well as the source of many of the housing building materials. 

We made our way to a series of stairs and were explained the importance if the wealth at the bottom and community at the top. However, we did not climb the stairs, we took the elevator. 

Called a funicular, it was a faster (if 100 peso) ride to higher altitudes. (Here, we lost all but one dog who snuck aboard the elevator) Striking up on the cerro was the street art. 

We did make our way to a man selling artisanal alfajores, the delicious sweet cracker sandwich with dulce de leche inside and then the whole bit is dipped in chocolate. We may have bought several. 

Our tour continued back down and around (via bus) to another part of town as we climbed to an open air museum of street art. I really enjoyed the details on these huge canvases. 

Back up for some chicha and a recap of our 3 hour tour and lunch recommendations. Our tour operated only on tips, so we tipped generously because it was so excellent. 

We then found people with similar lunch interests and headed off with an Aussie and a Kiwi (living in Australia) and attempted our first place. Closed. Then another recommendation. Closed. A third option. Closed. So we headed for the market and fish places. Folks fought for our business like the empanadas place in Salta. 

After lunch, we parted company with our group so we could organize our bus back to Mendoza (since we were right by the bus station) and then headed back to our hotel. 

We looked around for some art before deciding on some ice cream, another recommendation from our tour. This one, however, was open. And we chanced upon our lunch mates there as well! So we all sat down again and enjoyed one of the 25 best ice cream shops in the world. 

We sat and talked for a good long time. So long, in fact, it was time for dinner. So we set off for one of the many recommendations we had. Curiously, they were all closed again. We went to around 5 places and they were all shuttered. So we came up with a tip the no books or guides mentioned to us: Many restaurants in Valparaiso are closed on Sundays. We did, however, find a pack of dogs who adopted us again. One of which was the clever one from the morning's tour. 

Eventually, we found a sushi place that was actually open. We went for it. (Dogs waited outside) We ordered some drinks and enough food to pass around and the conversations continued. 

Once it was all said and done, it was nearing midnight. We made plans to meet in the morning by the pier to organize a boat trip if the bay. Apparently, it's one view to be on the hills looking out, but it's intirely different to see the view from the ocean as new immigrants saw it as they approached. Bigger groups meant better negotiating power with the apparently rough speaking sailors. For now, to bed and decent sleep. (And leaving our last dog outside our hotel, as he waited for us to finish dinner and pick up the escort to our place)